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Cooling Fan Tech

AgitatedPancake said:
It would be cool to figure out what that connector is, looks like a hearty unit. Just did a little surfing on Broses website, looks like they offer fans up to 1200w. But no real details beyond that.

Electric motors and drives - Products - Brose Fahrzeugteile

Here's one of those BMW Brose fan motors itself, not that it's helpful for much. Just trying to learn more about 'em

09-15 F01 F02 F04 BMW 750I 750LI N63 RADIATOR COOLING FAN MOTOR BROSE Y6763 | eBay

Edit - First time I've actually seen the chassis side power harness, at least we know what it looks like now:

Electric Fan Wiring Harness / Connector 61136987020
1441455bdcb9c13f339948cb1d23ab9b332ae1db2602308720.jpg
Click to expand...
I believe Kostal makes that connector and uses a weird terminal in it.

You can buy a chinese version here:


Unfortunately, looks like they use ultrasonic wire bonding instead of crimping. See: Ultrasonic joining technology systems | TELSONIC Ultrasonics The terminal looks identical. However, "Kostal LSK8" terminals might fit, and they're crimpable.

A good alternative might be Yazaki 58X connectors, which are weathersealed and use basic, common, inexpensive, FASTON 6.3mm and 9.5mm terminals
 
thatbus said:
I believe Kostal makes that connector and uses a weird terminal in it.

You can buy a chinese version here:


Unfortunately, looks like they use ultrasonic wire bonding instead of crimping. See: Ultrasonic joining technology systems | TELSONIC Ultrasonics The terminal looks identical. However, "Kostal LSK8" terminals might fit, and they're crimpable.

A good alternative might be Yazaki 58X connectors, which are weathersealed and use basic, common, inexpensive, FASTON 6.3mm and 9.5mm terminals
Click to expand...
Definitely sonic welded.

Thanks for the extra info though.
 
Trying to get my design locked in for the shroud I disassembled the brose fan to see about building a aluminum shroud for it

Should be easy, it has a 4 bolt symmetrical pattern mount.

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FWIW, I work the Rod Repair Shop at some of the NSRA shows, if we see 80 cars on a weekend show 40 are cooling fan related problems.
People will wire up their fans with chinesium relays and wire, use a 20A relay and expect it to work, LMAO.
I’m going to start taking pictures of some of the stuff I find.
Also the A/C companies like Vintage Air recommend a 70A circuit for electric cooling fans.
 
Can confirm the FPM works well. I forgot to cycle power while setting up so I made it more difficult but it controls the engine and trans right where I set them and it’s super easy to change temp range which changes the operating temp where it settles in. I ended up tapping into the same wire from the autometer sensor to guage in the control enclosure. 3M foam taped it to the side of the enclosure.

www.ebay.com

VARIABLE PWM FAN CONTROL works with ANY sensor, compare to Lingenfelter VSFM-002 | eBay

It also has special selections for driving Solid State Relays (SSR's) to vary DC fans with no fuss. Easy 2-button programming makes setting the temperature span a snap, just run the engine and press one button at your "turn on" setpoint, another button at your "full speed" setpoint.
www.ebay.com
 
HYDRODYNAMIC said:
Can confirm the FPM works well. I forgot to cycle power while setting up so I made it more difficult but it controls the engine and trans right where I set them and it’s super easy to change temp range which changes the operating temp where it settles in. I ended up tapping into the same wire from the autometer sensor to guage in the control enclosure. 3M foam taped it to the side of the enclosure.

www.ebay.com

VARIABLE PWM FAN CONTROL works with ANY sensor, compare to Lingenfelter VSFM-002 | eBay

It also has special selections for driving Solid State Relays (SSR's) to vary DC fans with no fuss. Easy 2-button programming makes setting the temperature span a snap, just run the engine and press one button at your "turn on" setpoint, another button at your "full speed" setpoint.
www.ebay.com
Click to expand...
Did you do the setup "live" start engine wait until it got to "set temp" or did you use resistors or something to fake it?
 
Started engine like normal, no resistors
Press and hold green button
Wait for engine to hit 180
Press green button, low is set
Press and hold red button
Wait for engine to hit 200
Press red button, high is set
It then should blink green saying it is working and fans come on
If you are below low temp the led is green and signals off
I will probably bump the temps up a little as that was a rough number and first attempt at setting the temps
I have read that the LS should be around 195° to run best
I can barely hear the fans most of the time so they must be very low speed
 
HYDRODYNAMIC said:
Started engine like normal, no resistors
Press and hold green button
Wait for engine to hit 180
Press green button, low is set
Press and hold red button
Wait for engine to hit 200
Press red button, high is set
It then should blink green saying it is working and fans come on
If you are below low temp the led is green and signals off
I will probably bump the temps up a little as that was a rough number and first attempt at setting the temps
I have read that the LS should be around 195° to run best
I can barely hear the fans most of the time so they must be very low speed
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I guess I am thinking about this on a system with inadequate cooling, like once the fan comes on it's not gonna shut off.
I hope I end up with extra cooling for this to work as designed.
 
With a variable fan you want your full speed to be up there in temp, 200 is way low in my opinion. You shouldn't need full speed unless you are beating it, so run that up around where you are comfortable to let the temps get as a maximum. Have the minimum speed around your thermostat temp, on crawlers maybe lower if you want some air movement always.

When you have to set the points on a controller that is measuring the values its probably better to use a potentiometer to fake it vs trying to get it to the actual temperature.
 
Satan's_Minion said:
With a variable fan you want your full speed to be up there in temp, 200 is way low in my opinion. You shouldn't need full speed unless you are beating it, so run that up around where you are comfortable to let the temps get as a maximum. Have the minimum speed around your thermostat temp, on crawlers maybe lower if you want some air movement always.

When you have to set the points on a controller that is measuring the values its probably better to use a potentiometer to fake it vs trying to get it to the actual temperature.
Click to expand...

Can we use my junk as a example?
Gen 1 400 ci SBC, steel heads

165* thermostat (I think) will change it to different temp if needed.

Max temp of 200*?
So I set my fan min to ?
Max to ?

But I think with the FPM module there is some extra settings for maximum max which sort of confused me.
 
CarterKraft said:
Can we use my junk as a example?
Gen 1 400 ci SBC, steel heads

165* thermostat (I think) will change it to different temp if needed.

Max temp of 200*?
So I set my fan min to ?
Max to ?

But I think with the FPM module there is some extra settings for maximum max which sort of confused me.
Click to expand...
SBC I'd put a 180 thermostat, fans from 180 to 220
 
The 180°/200° was on the low side just to get it going and see how it would program and react.
Easy to heat up and get cool again while testing.
I think the thermostat is a 185°, so I will bump the low to around 190° and high to 225° as that is a specific hash mark on the gauge to confirm function.
The low speed is so low it can’t be heard but it cycles off and on at idle at 180°
 
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