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Dust Buggy

HYDRODYNAMIC said:
Broke the brake lines.
While tightening the nut, and holding the ferrule, the fitting broke.
Not knowing if I did something wrong I decided to break another one and it snapped super easy.
After looking at it and seeing how little material connects the stem, nut, ferrule, I figured there had to be a better fitting.
Found out they make the rubber style one piece fitting and use an aluminum knurled sleeve to take up the space for SS braid.
Both old and new are DOT but the one piece is way stronger.
Thanks to Bebop for helping sort it out.
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That seems like a real crappy design for a DOT rated line. :eek: Good catch, and it's much better to figure it out now as opposed to finding out on a trail.
 
It left the garage under its own power.
No brakes ✅
Emergency hand brake works great though
No skid plates ✅
No body panels ✅
The radiator might have a small leak somewhere, I saw fluid on the fan housing but not enough to drip. This will be a pain to find. I have parts to make a new radiator so might just do that. Trans kept taking fluid as I moved through the gears as it heated up. Hopefully it’s full now.
Fans and controllers keep everything at temp.
Steering is smooth and fast and doesn’t whine.
Everything shifts like it’s supposed to.
Not a lot of room to test, but it breaks the tires loose in the turns.
Pretty sure some of the injectors are dirty.
Got a small drip between the NWF and the adapter on the 4L80.

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mobil1syn said:
wheres the burnout videos?
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Still taking it easy as the bugs show up. That and I only have an emergency brake. For example the trans was full but then took more. I keep checking every thing and push it a little more every time.

The circuit breaker for the fans has tripped a couple times but runs normal most of the time.
Ditched the circuit breaker and installed MAXI fuses instead out of recommendation of SPAL. Have not tested yet.
 
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did you use a plate between the 4l80 and the NWF box? I had an issue with my ecobox leaking and had to add a 1/8 plate and 2 gaskets because of the way the clocking holes lined up with the 4l80
 
Tore it down and the Eco didn’t have any RTV on it, only the adapter side. So I assume I did a crappy job of applying the RTV. At about 4:00 you can see a gap.
This go around I went overkill with cleaning and a gasket and all the RTV.

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The seal failed? Lol.

I have an ecobox 205 setup with seals between, but still seal the mating surfaces with hylomar/rtv. I replaced the shaft seals last time I had it apart to fix some leaks.

They still leak. I hate it.
 
AgitatedPancake said:
Dumb question - I see an output seal on the trans, and an input seal on the ecobox, what causes that cavity to have fluid in it?
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I believe the trans output shaft bushing is pressurized and the seal keeps fluid held in. The seal is new and shows no signs of wear or damage.
On the 2WD models there is a plug with orifice at the 3:00 position that leaks fluid for the slip yoke. 4WD have a solid plug as it’s not needed.
The top hole at 12:00 and at bottom hole at 6:00 is a drain that goes back to the pan. If the pan oil sloshes around it can go through the drain and collect between the adapter and t-case.
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Ahhh that explains it, thanks. Had to do some picture searching to see more references, I get it now. I'm used to 4wd mopar transmissions which have no fluid path besides bypassing the seal. My 231/205 bolts up dry to the trans and hasn't had leak issues, so I was scratching my head
 
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