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03 LB7 rebuild

Duc

Red Skull Member
Joined
May 30, 2020
Member Number
1679
Messages
342
Loc
ABQ NM
Looking to rebuild the front-end of a 2003 LB7 crewcab duramax with 340k miles on the odometer. Truck spent ton of time on the east coast or somewhere with salted roads. No lift on truck, maybe tow once or twice a year.

Plan parts so far
DMAX XD wheel bearings(new bolts and dustcaps)
Bilstein B6 4600 Series HD Shocks
Moog severe duty lower control arms
Moog severe duty upper control arms
Kryptonite Cam Bolt Kit
Kryptonite Alignment Pins

Probably need to replace tie rods and such


Any parts or recommendations for a mostly stock truck?
 
O rings for the hubs up front.
Tie rods. I went with the big DMAX store ones. No need since I don’t do boosted 4wd launches.
Steering stabilizer
Pitman arm. Someone sells a brace you can buy. I think I did some kind of slight upgrade Moog offers or someone else. I know it came with an extended hose making servicing it easier.
 
been through the same thing on my 06 3500, I did everything you are planning plus idler arm, pittman arm and steering box... but these two items still made the feedback and steering the best.

www.summitracing.com

Borgeson Universal 000937 Borgeson Universal Telescoping Steering Shafts | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Borgeson Universal Telescoping Steering Shafts with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Steering Shafts at Summit Racing.
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www.wolffeng.com

GM109SS Lower Steering Column Bearing WITHOUT Sensor Housing

Wolff Engineering GM109SS Lower Steering Column Cartridge Bearing for GM columns with 2" jacket and 1" shaft. This cartridge bearing is designed around a precision, sealed deep-groove radial ball bearing. The cartridge body is constructed of acetal and is fitted with two Buna-N o-rings to insure...
www.wolffeng.com

Also, make sure the torx head tension screws are snug in the tilt mechanism ujoint on the steering column...
 
Highly recommend idler and pitman arm braces. I replaced my arms at around 100k and installed the braces. Haven’t touched them in 240k miles now. :eek:

I also did at the same time, (I think they were called at the time) super duty tie rods. I have replaced those once more in 240k, but I have never worried about hammering it in 4wd since.
 
Started on removing the old rusted parts. Ran into a few issues with the control arm bolts that were rusted into place. Took abit with the air hammer and PB Blaster. Making a list of parts to replace along with the suggestions.

More parts. Still adding to the list
-CV joints
-Steering components
-cotter pins

Freaking Torsion bars are rusted into place and not sure I can pound them out. Going to put relieve cuts into the lower controller arms to allow the bars to be released.
1710561082873.png
 
Correct ^^^. Once you release the bolt and mount on the keys, the torsion bar goes forward until out of the bracket, then rotate the lca and the bar pulls out the lca going back
 
I wish ot was that simply for me. Everything is hard rusted into place with the torsion bars. I cut a chunk of the lower control arm away where the torsion bar slides in. Hopefully this relieves some of the problems before I try again tonight to pound the bar towards the front. Liberal coating of PB blaster was applied.

One bolt on each upper control arm was rusted in place to the point of using the air hammer. Even then it almost didn't move.
 
arse_sidewards said:
Can we see some pics of what constitutes “rusted in place” :laughing:
Click to expand...
I don't even see any in the picture. His definition of rust is definitely different than mine. Of course I'm used to working on vehicles in Michigan.
 
Not sure what I caught Saturday night but I spent the night viewing the toilet at eye level. Fully felt better this afternoon to work on the truck

Cut the Lower mounts off the truck to reduce the force required to push torsion bar out. Still had no progress with the parts removed.
Lower control arms.jpg



Decided to grind away the rivets holding in the torsion bar bracket mounts. Looks like the passenger bar was replaced at one point but unsure when. I bought the truck with 273K on the odometer in NC.
Torsion bar bracket.jpg


Smashing tool.
Impact tool.jpg


Tried to knock the bars out by using the tractor counter weight.
Hard stop.jpg


Plan C. Split the leveling keys by drill holes before pounding a chisel into the holes.
Drilling.jpg


split.jpg



Finally
Rust.jpg


First shipment of parts.
Parts1.jpg



Still waiting on extra parts
1710812111376.png
 
Last edited:
When UCA bushing becomes annoying to replace, I recommend DMAX tubular arm. 2nd year and haven't replaced bushing yet.
 
Upgrade to the tie rods
Tierod upgrade.jpg


Removed the truck bed before working on the rear suspension. Made the work alot easier
Removing bed.jpg


Rust and More rust. I removed some of the rust with a needle scaler but plan on buying a pressure washer that will work with the sandblasting attachment.
Rust 1.jpg


Notice the lack of a gas tank strap.
Rust 2.jpg


Had to drop the full gas tank to remove the front leaf spring bushing bolt on the driver side. Bolt was 1in to long. Didnt help I filled the tank a few weeks before I started project.
Lower gas tank.jpg


Both sides of the gas tank cross member had a hole that I was able to patch and reinforce till I build a new one at a later date.
Crossmember rust.jpg



HF balljoint press worked well for the chevy leaf spring bushing. 1. Press out metal center sleeve, 2. Press out rubber, 3. saw a slit in metal bushing housing before air hammer some, 4. press out metal sleeve. Fuck chevy bushings
Balljoint Press.jpg


~$4,000 in parts
Bad parts.jpg


This went from a front end rework to everything. More work coming in the coming weeks and I also renamed the thread.
 
Well this was a turn for events. Decided to visit the local Upull it place for some smaller parts for the truck but ran across a 2005 duramax with a decent frame. A luck was on our side that the bed was already moved and axle dropped. Normally frames go from $262 but since I only need the rear section the price was $100. Each replacement crossmember can be found online for $200-500 each with the rear tire mount being on the high end.

Frame with all 3 crossmembers that need replacement on my truck. Very light surface rust. Its a NM truck.
2005 Rear Frame Upullit.jpg


Upullit1.jpg


Upullit2.jpg


We did have to run back to my place to pick up a full tool set along with sawzall and grinder to remove frame. We werent planning on taking a frame but was hard to turn down. Extra pieces cut off and loaded onto wheel borrow since nobody was working today for the loader. This was a 2 man job to move the frame out of scrap yard.
Wheel.jpg



Some how this project went from minor to major........Deciding between replacing crossmembers or replacing the whole rear section. Probably the replacment.
 
I know you are farther along into the project. I ordered a lot of my parts from Kryptonite and have had good luck with them.
 
Finally got around to installing a Kill switch on the starter circuit to make it somewhat harder to steal the truck without knowing where the switch is.

Debating on buying new leather seat covers for both the driver and passenger side or just the driver.
 
Ordered the seat covers for the truck.

1714271281312.png



Debating on buying running boards or just reusing a old ass project. Running boards run anywhere from $200-$900 online. Reusing the old sliders will probably cost around $100 to buy material to sleeve extensions on the sliders. Ive been carrying the sliders around for 3 moves to different states and 12 years.
Front view.jpg


Side view.jpg



Any thoughts?
 
Duc said:
LB7 duramax doesnt have DEF fluid, DPF or EGR crap. Any 20 year old truck will have a ton of work needed. Injectors still have about 40,000 miles left.
Click to expand...
Yeah I know the positives . If placed in the circumstance I am just not sure I would have done the same . However , I do respect an LB7 they’re solid .
 
Leadfoot21 said:
Yeah I know the positives . If placed in the circumstance I am just not sure I would have done the same . However , I do respect an LB7 they’re solid .
Click to expand...

Completely understandable. If I didnt have a some disposable income plus the tools to complete the work, it might have been cheaper to buy a different truck. 70K to 100K for a new truck is painful. Truck should last another 10-15 years I hope.
 
Replaced the seat covers this weekend along with the driver foam.

Passenger seat before
Passenger seat old.jpg


The top seams a different color for now but might improve over time. I also need to clean the top better
Passenger replaced.jpg


Damaged driver seat require new foam also.
Driver seat.jpg

Driver foam damaged.jpg


Top cover was eh
Driver Top damage.jpg


Top foam was ok
Driver top foam.jpg


Still need to work the leather a little more. The bottom latch was a bitch.
Replaced top foam.jpg


Had some help to latch the rear of the seat.
Seat help.jpg



Almost done.
Replaced.jpg
 
Sandblasted the junkyard frame today. Not something you stay dry during or clean but better than a wire wheel. Spent about an 1.5 hr between refilling sand, flipping, changing out to the automotive jack instead of sawhorses.

I started a thread awhile ago about wet sandblasting
irate4x4.com

Sandblast or Wet Sandblasting setup

I have been looking into a setup for sand blasting large parts then what currently fits in my sandblasting cabinet. I have a nice skat blast cabinet for smaller parts but large parts such as truck frames or other things are to much for the cabinet. Living in NM means I can care less about...
irate4x4.com irate4x4.com

Used 2-3 50lbs bags of Black Diamond fine media @$12.99/bag.

Frame is flash rusting a little bit but I can either wire wheel the small amount of flash rust or just use a Rust-Oleum primer for rust.
Cleanframe1.jpg


Cleanframe2.jpg
 
Duc said:
Replaced the seat covers this weekend along with the driver foam.

Passenger seat before
Passenger seat old.jpg


The top seams a different color for now but might improve over time. I also need to clean the top better
Passenger replaced.jpg


Damaged driver seat require new foam also.
Driver seat.jpg

Driver foam damaged.jpg


Top cover was eh
Driver Top damage.jpg


Top foam was ok
Driver top foam.jpg


Still need to work the leather a little more. The bottom latch was a bitch.
Replaced top foam.jpg


Had some help to latch the rear of the seat.
Seat help.jpg



Almost done.
Replaced.jpg
Click to expand...
Who did you buy the covers from? I bought some off eBay that we4e cheap, but pure shit.
 
Duc said:
Looking to rebuild the front-end of a 2003 LB7 crewcab duramax with 340k miles on the odometer. Truck spent ton of time on the east coast or somewhere with salted roads. No lift on truck, maybe tow once or twice a year.

Plan parts so far
DMAX XD wheel bearings(new bolts and dustcaps)
Bilstein B6 4600 Series HD Shocks
Moog severe duty lower control arms
Moog severe duty upper control arms
Kryptonite Cam Bolt Kit
Kryptonite Alignment Pins

Probably need to replace tie rods and such


Any parts or recommendations for a mostly stock truck?
Click to expand...
You should probably change the title to 03 Chevy 2500 or whatever. LB7 is your motor.
 
Steve300xcw said:
If you wanna be that guy and nit pick........ sure looks like a gmc to me:flipoff2:

1715087926909.png
Click to expand...


I put in the “or whatever” for you nitpickers :flipoff2:


I opened this thread hoping to see some duramax guts. Split that thing open, op!
 
Steve300xcw said:
If you wanna be that guy and nit pick........ sure looks like a gmc to me:flipoff2:

1715087926909.png
Click to expand...

Yep a GMC Sierra 2500HD crewcab with long bed SLT aka fucking school bus
DMG said:
I put in the “or whatever” for you nitpickers :flipoff2:


I opened this thread hoping to see some duramax guts. Split that thing open, op!
Click to expand...

Hopefully not for a long time. LB7 labels at least avoids people why I would be fixing a gas truck
 
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