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What did you do for your ford today?

arse_sidewards said:
Town and country bump stops, scrap of 3/8 with a hole in it = perfect fit for the rear of a Ranger.

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What the fuck do you use for pictures, a 2005 motorola razr?:flipoff2:
 
67 Bronco - Still fighting this stupid stumble at cruising/2200 RPM. Checked the plugs, they look good. With all new ignition, rebuilt carb, and every suggestion listed here and from Holley tech support I'm at my wit's end. Just ordered a rebuild kit for this other Holley 4-barrel I have sitting around. Will give that a try and if that doesn't do it my buddy wants me to bring it to the shop to look at and throw parts he has laying around at it. Otherwise, will probably just put a known-good 302 in it one of his clients is "throwing away" in favor of a Coyote.

78 F150 1-ton swap - I lowered the rear end about 1-2" with the adjustable shackle flip bracket. Looks much better. I'm optimistic that throwing a spare 40" in the bed and adding a rear bumper will bring the rear the extra .5" it needs to come down but once I add a winch to the front I'll probably need a 1" taller coil spring up front. Next up I need to remove the degree shims from the leaf pack and that should be close enough in pinion angle that I can order a shorter rear driveshaft with a flange on the short shaft (for the Sterling 10.5). Once that's in.. plumb the rear brakes, order shocks, Tesla iBooster install.

No longer moving to Nor Cal so I have time to work on my shit again instead of packing up to move.
 
Ran the code reader on the 92. Codes 14, 32, 85 I guess. Off to do some research and figure that shit out. Hopefully it'll cure this running like shit thing.:homer::laughing:
 
78 F150 - pulled the six degree shim out of the rear leaf pack that I installed when I still had a 9 inch rear, 5.5” leaf pack and the factory block removed to point the pinion up. With the sterling axle it points it way too high.. flipping it too low.. removing it seems like it could be just right. At the very least, close enough to order a driveshaft.

Problem is I thought I could reuse my center pins (surprise, had to cut them off because I rounded the nuts to make them fit in the leaf spring plates)… and now I’m overnighting a pack of 10 for $39 from Amazon so I can finish this up tomorrow.

Would be great to get this driveshaft ordered..
 
M92PV4U said:
So first I bolted on new wheels, then I clamped on a camper shell.:flipoff2:
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Pretty much, I do have a bunch of parts going to go into it including a set of geared and locked superduty axles and some other cool parts but the plan is to keep it stupid simple. Need something that I can camp and fish out of and take down some trails that are interesting without getting buried constantly. And the camper shell is thru bolted, those clamps don't hold very well offroad.
 
And after farting some air out of the cooling system the Ranger went down the highway for the first time in 5yr.

Shit's got way more vibration than I remember and somehow the alignment is way the fuck off, maybe because I pulled the rear of the frame out of alignment with all those new crossmembers. :laughing:
 
78 F150 1-ton swap: installed the rear calipers, learned how to use my Rigid flaring kit and bent up the hard-lines for the rear.. just ordered the banjo bolts I need. Installed the shocks that I had in the rear with the 1/2-ton axles up front, seem to be perfect. Now I just need to order shocks for the rear and weld on shock mounts to the axle. Haven't ordered the rear driveshaft yet, will order that from Tom Wood's when I get paid next week.

Once I get that all done I can turn the truck around in the drive way and start the Tesla/iBooster install. Then it's some test-driving, get the gears changed to 4.88's and put an e-locker up front, pull off the crusty headers/exhaust to install exhaust manifolds and get a 2 into 1 exhaust installed. Last thing will be to order the front driveshaft (can't install one with the current exhaust and the hi-pinion front d60).

67 Bronco: bought a leak down test and a TDC whistle, will give that a shot tomorrow and see what I find. If it ends up being the motor will probably take it down to my buddy's shop in SD and get some help from him to replace/fix the motor/fix-whatever-it-is. I just want to get this thing running right so I can focus on the F150.
 
holdmypocket said:
78 F150 1-ton swap: installed the rear calipers, learned how to use my Rigid flaring kit and bent up the hard-lines for the rear.. just ordered the banjo bolts I need. Installed the shocks that I had in the rear with the 1/2-ton axles up front, seem to be perfect. Now I just need to order shocks for the rear and weld on shock mounts to the axle. Haven't ordered the rear driveshaft yet, will order that from Tom Wood's when I get paid next week.

Once I get that all done I can turn the truck around in the drive way and start the Tesla/iBooster install. Then it's some test-driving, get the gears changed to 4.88's and put an e-locker up front, pull off the crusty headers/exhaust to install exhaust manifolds and get a 2 into 1 exhaust installed. Last thing will be to order the front driveshaft (can't install one with the current exhaust and the hi-pinion front d60).

67 Bronco: bought a leak down test and a TDC whistle, will give that a shot tomorrow and see what I find. If it ends up being the motor will probably take it down to my buddy's shop in SD and get some help from him to replace/fix the motor/fix-whatever-it-is. I just want to get this thing running right so I can focus on the F150.
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What engine ? 460?
Is it stockish?
 
Sorry, meant the dent side.

Was curious what sort of difference you might notice going from headers to manifolds
 
Levigarrett76 said:
Sorry, meant the dent side.

Was curious what sort of difference you might notice going from headers to manifolds
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Yeah, same here. It might be a few months before I get to that but I’ll tag you when I do. The 400 is a fresh reman from SandJ with an RV cam, stock 2bbl.

Mildly interesting anecdote: before I put this engine in I had a 351m with an Edelbrock intake and Holley 4bbl with the same headers annd exhaust I have now. The 400 with 2bbl and RV cam feels like it has about the same horsepower as the 351m but a significant/noticeable amount more torque. I had to run 2bbl stuff for smog in CA.
 
Finally got around to putting my summer oil in :laughing: I've been running cheap 5-30, because that's the case of what I had. I'm curious if going to SAE 30 will slow down some of my oil consumption. This lucas break in oil has a zinc equivalent to what a bottle of ZDDP additive would add, which is about double what the VR1 [and pretty well all other "heavy duty" oils] that I run in the motorcycle has.

Lower cost than 5qt of regular oil plus a ZDDP bottle. would be nice to have had 6 qts instead of 5, but it'll probably be just fine :rasta:


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I let my adhd roam free today and made some decent progress on my parts pile. Black truck got a new cat back exhaust to replace the rotted out muffler. Blue truck got its old worn out warn replaced with a 16.5 comeup winch as well as new led offroad lights to replace the 20 year old lightforces. Still need to finish up winch install.
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