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Dumb TC pump question

My return port was pointed 180* the wrong way and I heated the pipe a little to break it loose and I just rotated it. You could also tap it for NPT maybe if there's a close size to what's there. NPT taps and fittings would be cheaper and easier to find probably
 
I heated mine and rotated it also, but it started leaking bad immediately after. I needed it operational so I welded the tube to the pump body. It pretty much stopped leaking but was enough to still suck air into the system and foam the fluid. It worked for a few months though.

I ended up buying one off Speedway last night. AN inlet and outlet fittings, 1600 psi output and comes with 6" v belt pulley for $150. Hopefully it works good!
 
Brecklin said:
I heated mine and rotated it also, but it started leaking bad immediately after. I needed it operational so I welded the tube to the pump body. It pretty much stopped leaking but was enough to still suck air into the system and foam the fluid. It worked for a few months though.

I ended up buying one off Speedway last night. AN inlet and outlet fittings, 1600 psi output and comes with 6" v belt pulley for $150. Hopefully it works good!
Click to expand...

Guess I gotta go put some RTV around that now before I fire it up
 
Well I got my whole power steering setup in and done. looks great and seems to sorta work, but it is not as powerful as i was expecting. it seems like the steering is still kinda hard when it's in the center and the steering will not return to center anymore (It returned to center when the manual steering was on it) Anyone have a suggestion?


Possibly related but the fluid looked immediately like chocolate milk when I took it for a little spin after bleeding all the air out and filling it. I flushed it and refilled with new fluid and it seems to be staying clean. Could my junkyard box be wasted?

Random install pics. I used a 80's toyota p/u reservoir.
IMG_9397.jpg


IMG_9399.jpg
 
SKULLYOTA said:
Well I got my whole power steering setup in and done. looks great and seems to sorta work, but it is not as powerful as i was expecting. it seems like the steering is still kinda hard when it's in the center and the steering will not return to center anymore (It returned to center when the manual steering was on it) Anyone have a suggestion?


Possibly related but the fluid looked immediately like chocolate milk when I took it for a little spin after bleeding all the air out and filling it. I flushed it and refilled with new fluid and it seems to be staying clean. Could my junkyard box be wasted?

Random install pics. I used a 80's toyota p/u reservoir.
IMG_9397.jpg


IMG_9399.jpg
Click to expand...
Sounds like the junkyard box had some moisture in it; was it sitting open to the elements?

I don't understand what you mean by not returning to center. It sounds like possibly your box is junk.

I must have missed it, but what box are you running?
 
Sidekick/Tracker box.

You know how when you're coming out of a turn and the wheel naturally returns to center when you're driving? It would do this like a normal car with the manual steering, but now with power steering it won't, but it still should.

I played with loosening the steering box adjusting nut, toe-in, etc last night and nothing affected it. I wonder if the wedge mount pushed the box away from the frame enough to stress the rag joint and the firewall bushing for the column? The bushing defintely sounds like it's rubbing where it didn't before
 
Maybe disconnect the steering shaft from the box and turn the wheels side to side while its jacked up off the ground. You'd think you could tell if the resistance is abnormal, and then you could rule it down to the box being bad.

Was there a lot of tension on the steering shaft while you connected everything to the box?
 
Brecklin I think you're right, it is probably being caused by resistance at the firewall bushing and the rag joint. I WD40'd the shit out of the firewall bushing and the rubbing noise stopped. Then I drove it some this AM and it actually would start to return to center coming out of a turn but wouldn't quite get all the way. The rag joint looks definitely stressed and flexed out too, the LRO wedge mount must have moved it away from the frame enough.

I ordered a rag joint eliminator and i'll throw some 2* caster wedges on the front springs and see what it does.

Funny that something as powerful as power steering is being defeated by a stiff rag joint and a rubbing bushing FFS


In hindsight a Toyota IFS box outside the frame.......:grinpimp:
 
I ran an IFS box for a while, it would need to be mounted ahead of the core support to allow the tie rod and drag link to clear eschother on up travel.

Go for an FJ box, they swing forward instead of backward.
 
Baldy said:
I too was concerned about breaking shit when I installed it 10 years ago. I've hammered on this rig for 10 years and so far it's been bulletproof.
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This is intriguing.

I made a thread a while ago and people thought I’m crazy but hear me out.

what size is the manual steering box input shaft? Same as a Saginaw steering box? How many turns is manual steering box’s lock to lock? Jeep Saginaw are like 3 turns. I think lots of manual steering boxes are at least 4 turns.

I toyed with the idea of to put an EPAS on a standard power assisted steering box, to have more steering power without going hydro assist with a cylinder ram.
 
TrailTamer said:
This is intriguing.

I made a thread a while ago and people thought I’m crazy but hear me out.

what size is the manual steering box input shaft? Same as a Saginaw steering box? How many turns is manual steering box’s lock to lock? Jeep Saginaw are like 3 turns. I think lots of manual steering boxes are at least 4 turns.

I toyed with the idea of to put an EPAS on a standard power assisted steering box, to have more steering power without going hydro assist with a cylinder ram.
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Don't know input shaft sizes. Most power assisted boxes are 3-3.5 turns, the zuk box is like 5 and change I think? Only thing about your idea is that while it is sending that additional force through larger, stronger parts, it is still concentrated on the frame, rather than moving most of that force to the axle housing like it would with a ram. You'd want to reinforce the frame pretty well if you are going to add EPS on top of "normal" power steering, depending on the type of wheeling/terrian.
 
Let’s say steering box’s mounting is good

I have bone stock steering on my Jeep XJ’s D30 rolling on 36x13.5r15 IROK bias (actual 37” tall). I rock crawl with it and don’t ever needed more powerful steering but the reduced effort will be appreciated
 
TrailTamer said:
Let’s say steering box’s mounting is good

I have bone stock steering on my Jeep XJ’s D30 rolling on 36x13.5r15 IROK bias (actual 37” tall). I rock crawl with it and don’t ever needed more powerful steering but the reduced effort will be appreciated
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Nothing to it but to do it and see how it goes. I can only try and speculate about potential issues.... like if you had any issues with steering input causing a stall when crawling at idle, then you'd want to make sure you throttle up a bit, but that's really all I can think of offhand.
 
Well I'm still having issues with my PS install. checked caster, toe-in, center on the box, etc. Nothing seems to help. it will sorta try to return to center when coming out of a left turn but not a right turn. loosening the sector shaft adjustment nut/bolt has zero effect, I turned it out over a whole turn and there was no increase in play. Still waiting on the rag joint eliminator to try out, but I think my junkyard box is f*cked.

Just ordered a reman box from O'Reilly.........
 
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how it feels like when swinging it back and forth lock to lock on jack stands (engine off)?

Did you felt a tight spot as it go through the center, or overall feels to be 'tight' and harder compared to when you had manual steering box on it?
 
Engine off, on jackstands, steering is super easy like no effort required at all (which seems wrong)

it's only about three turns lock to lock, whereas O'Reilly's website specs for the replacement box should be 4?


engine on, it feels tighter in the center also.

overall, i can feel that the power steering is actually working compared to the manual steering
 
sadly no. I bought the new gearbox, but then decided to buy a $300 running/driving Suzuki Swift so I could have a spare motor for my sammy. took me a while to get the motor pulled and stored in the garage then haul the rest of the car off. hopefully this week i'll get the new box on.
 
Got the new box from O'Reilly installed and still have the same issue. Could the pump be too powerful? The alignment is spot on, this thing feels like im driving a forklift
 
Take the belt off if you really want to eliminate the pump.being an issue. Mine drives fine with all kick power steering parts, belt or no belt :laughing:

I didn't do the wedge thing though, just drilled and welded in 2 of the 3 bolts.

Are you running the wierd pitman arm mounted steering stabilizer? Either way, if you have one, take it off, almost sounds like a bent shaft.
 
Good idea on taking the belt off, I will try that next. I do not have a steering stabilizer either, so no worries there. Draglink is nearly flat too.

Was also wondering if I have a tight or binding kingpin bearing that might be causing resistance?
 
SKULLYOTA said:
Was also wondering if I have a tight or binding kingpin bearing that might be causing resistance?
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I think unlikely due to what you described. Binding only when engine is running.

Did you get your steering shaft fixed yet? Steering shaft in tension (extend maxed out) or compression (collapsed fully) to bolt in place May only become a problem while engine is running and cause funky behavior due to the box input shaft being pushed in or pulled.

Did you gorilla-tightened steering box mounting bolts? This can easily cause just enough distortion to steering box’s case to bind or malfunction internally.

What caster you’re at?
 
Steering shaft doesn't appear to be too extended or compressed, brand new rag joint was installed too. I can remove the bolt from the steering coupler on the box and it will spin freely in the hole, so that indicates to me that it isn't being pulled or pushed against that slot on the steering box shaft (if that makes sense)

Double checked the steering box mounting bolts, loosened and retorqued them to 60 ft-lbs

Caster is at 8* measured at the top of the knuckles

also drove it with the PS belt removed. I wanna say that it tried to return to center a little bit better.
 
I have no advice, but really hope you figure this out and let us know what it was because I'm really curious.
 
Still haven't solved the return to center issue but discovered a thread from the old board where someone had the same problem but supposedly the PSC reservoir kit somehow solved all their problems??

Track/Kick steering box questions.

Does anyone happen to know who "468LC" is in real life? Tried PMing him on the other board but he hasn't been on in two years. Also doesn't seem to be a username used on this board.

I'm not sure about dumping $300 on a PSC reservoir that may or may not fix my issue though...

I'm tempted to just unswap the TC pump and go to a tracker pump since I have all the serpentine pulley parts, dual serp crank pulley and a serpentine alternator from the 1992 Swift I parted out. The just buy the missing pump and bracket from ebay and make it work.
 
Your PS pump (tc) belt is just for the pump?

Can you pull that belt and test drive it as manual steering to see whether the you get the return to center to come back?
 
Did the remove the belt test drive, felt like I got a bit return to center back.

But the alignment numbers, caster toe etc. all seem to be correct.

The only other thing I can think of is that the PO of my Sammy welded the front leaf perches on crooked so the springs have a side to side tilt in them somewhat. Not sure if that could cause steering/alignment issues though. Goes straight down the road.
 
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